For better and for much better, tourism is a seasonal industry in usually bustling Cesky Krumlov

By Meghan O’Connell

Giant snowflakes threaten to overtake the Krumlov castle (Photo by Meghan OConnell).

I climbed up onto the stone ledge, brushed the snow off the metal railing, and leaned over the edge. Unable to see what I was looking for, I stretched farther, my feet leaving the ground and my gloves gripping tightly to the bar.

“What on earth are you doing?” my friends asked me, clearly puzzled as to why I was acting like a 5-year-old.

“I’m trying to see the bears!” I informed them.

“Meg. It’s almost December,” my friend, Dan Padmos, told me. “Bears go into hibernation in early October.”

Feeling rather disappointed and incredibly foolish, I lowered myself from the ledge and brushed the cold, white powder from my coat. (more…)

So much more than totalitarian ghosts in the glitzy New York of the East

By Meghan O’Connell

Red Square is ready for Christmas. (All photos by Meghan O'Connell).

Russia has an image problem.

Some of us hear the word and ours minds immediately fly to thoughts of the cruelty of communism, Soviet gulags, the brutality of the recent conflict with Georgia and a prime minister who seems unashamed about having been part of the secret police apparatus in the bad old days. (more…)

How one American made a complete idiot of herself, and how to make sure you don’t do the same

By Meghan O’Connell

Panoramic views and cute tables sucker in witless foreigners (photo by Meghan O'Connell).

It is a glorious day. The sun has just burned off the last of the morning clouds and is now glittering along the Vltava. I feel perfectly content—except that I am terribly hungry.

As I make my way down the path leading away from the Prague Castle and back into town, something catches my eye. Amidst the vibrant foliage and mini-vineyards, sits a large patio overlooking the entire city.

Small tables are covered in pristine white cloths and dotted with crystal-clear wine glasses. In the early afternoon sunlight, it looks almost holy. I must eat here. (more…)