Why gadjes want to join gypsy caravans

Roma musicians’ raspy voices and accordions make outsiders crave more

By Lia Tamborra


A night at Rubin with impromptu band, “Gypsy Apple Strudel” (Music by Vera Bila, photos by Vaclav Mares).

Romale, chavale. Imar hin tosarla. Romale, chavale. Imar hin tosarla. Tosarla, tosarla, tosarla. E masina imar dzal, palo svetos roma phiren. Tosarla, tosarla, phiren. Phiren, phiren, phiren.”

(Roma people, white people. The sun is rising for us. Roma people, white people, the sun is rising for us. Rising, rising, rising. The train is coming. Roma travel through the world. The sun is rising for us, rising. They travel, travel, travel).

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Let the music make the memory

All-in-one dining and entertainment venues create memorable atmospheres filled with delicious fun

By Rebecca Weinstein

Clean Head Phil putting the Blues in Red, Hot & Blues

Clean Head Phil putting the blues in Red, Hot & Blues (Photo by Rebecca Weinstein).

Often in one ear and out the other, the subtle background tune of a recorded melody hardly gets attention from diners. However, like pairing fancy cheeses with wine, the coupling of cuisine with well-selected musical entertainment can enhance the experience of any meal.

Offering nightly live jazz music from 7:30 p.m. to 10:30 p.m., Red, Hot & Blues is one restaurant in Prague where the entertainment takes center stage. In the back corner of the restaurant’s main room sits an old, upright piano that has been accompanied by basses, guitars, and vocal scat singing since the establishment’s opening not long after the so-called Velvet Revolution.

At first glance the restaurant, located a short walk from Old Town Square, looks unremarkable. Yet, the music and scents of New Orleans wafting through the door beckon passersby to discover what Red, Hot & Blues has to offer. Continuing past the bar into the main seating area and the outdoor courtyard, the décor remains simple but refreshingly absent of any overly touristy decorations or tacky New Orleans memorabilia.

Giving diners an experience in the flavors and feeling of Mardi Gras is role of the food and the music rather than the setting.

The menu has a wide selection of Cajun and other American classics like buffalo wings and burgers. The quesadillas are stellar starters and are deliciously toped with salsa, sour cream and jalapeños for an extra kick on this tex-mex classic (189 crowns, $9). However, the main portions are rather large so splitting the appetizers is recommended. For a main course, try the chicken creole filled with tomato, pepper, onions and celery flavors and a hot, but not overly explosive, kick. The burrito with seasoned chicken was everything one would expect from a typical burrito but nothing particularly distinctive.

While the food is appetizing and homey, the menu itself is not particularly innovative. It is the complementary music in Red, Hot & Blues that truly makes the restaurant a noteworthy dining stop in Prague. If possible try and catch the Thursday or Friday night performances of Clean Head Phil low raspy voice singing the Kansas City Blues. (more…)

Do-si-do your way through Zizkov

A slice of classic Americana in the heart of the Czech Republic, with just a hint of Top Forty flavor

By Sam Corbett

Despite cheap drinks, this saloon is more of a ghost town (Photo by Sam Corbett).

Despite cheap drinks, this saloon is a ghost town (Photo by Sam Corbett).

In any other bar in Prague, walking in and being surrounded by skulls while a vulture lurks above you might be disquieting. But at a country-western bar, it’s just par for the course.

Country-and-western music has been extremely popular in the Czech Republic for decades. Under Communist rule, the appeal of songs about the open road and freedom inspired hope among the downtrodden citizens.

“The situation was very interesting under Communism,” said Ruth Ellen Gruber, an expert on cowboy culture in Europe. “The authorities permitted country music and bluegrass, but controlled it too, as bands had to sing in Czech.”

Europe’s first country music radio station was here, and the much-loved “Tramp Movement,” in which urbanites spend weekends in the country “roughing it” as if they’re in the American west, infuses local country-western with a flavor all its own.

“The Tramp movement, based in part on the romance of the American west, developed after World War One and created a strong tradition of sitting around campfires, strumming guitars and singing,” Gruber said. “Many American folk songs, translated into Czech, were incorporated into the acoustic Tramp music repertoire decades ago.” (more…)

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