By Clarke Bowling

Within the first hour of our initial orientation to Prague, the staff of our program offered one simple warning—beware of herna bars. Passing by these seedy looking establishments, it’s not hard to understand why. Whether they have flashing lights promising “Ruleta” or a more simple façade reading “HERNA NONSTOP” with a door leading to a subterranean playroom and bar, these mini-casinos with twenty-four hour bar service are attractive with their cheap beer prices and late-night hours, but are they really as unwelcoming as they seem?

A herna bar could be most likened to, perhaps, the diviest of the dives imaginable: smoke-filled air, a room full of slot machines (half of which haven’t worked in years), and a cast of drunken characters that seem to be as fixed to their location as the bar itself. Why might one want to stop into such an establishment, you may ask? Well, other than providing an intimate look at the local Czech character, herna bars often have the cheapest beer on tap in Prague—as low as CZK 20 for a half liter. However, coupled with some losses at the machines (which often have no discernible way of cashing out other than asking someone who works there), prices can end up averaging the same as a more reputable establishment…so watch out!

When ordering, watch your language. Of being an American in a herna bar, Daniel Witharna, an NYU junior in Gallatin, said, “The waitress didn’t speak English, but was really friendly…and another herna bar patron translated for us.” However, he said, at a herna bar near Osadni, “It was like a movie, as soon as we walked in everyone noticed us. It was really awkward and the longer we stayed, we felt more and more uncomfortable.” Another herna was even more abrupt: “We were turned down by one…that insisted we gambled before we bought beer.”

So, if you’re apt to try out the herna bar scene, just be aware of your position and try to be as inconspicuous as possible. One tip: if you think you’re up to it, try ordering drinks in Czech to strike a rapport with the waitress or bartender. It could help mark you as a foreigner living in Prague who is trying to learn the language and fit in rather than a loud, rowdy American tourist looking to make scene. If you think you find yourself more in the latter, stick to Chapeau Rouge.

Clarke Bowling is a sophomore at NYU.

A slice of classic Americana in the heart of the Czech Republic, with just a hint of Top Forty flavor

By Sam Corbett

Despite cheap drinks, this saloon is a ghost town (Photo by Sam Corbett).

In any other bar in Prague, walking in and being surrounded by skulls while a vulture lurks above you might be disquieting. But at a country-western bar, it’s just par for the course.

Country-and-western music has been extremely popular in the Czech Republic for decades. Under Communist rule, the appeal of songs about the open road and freedom inspired hope among the downtrodden citizens.

“The situation was very interesting under Communism,” said Ruth Ellen Gruber, an expert on cowboy culture in Europe. “The authorities permitted country music and bluegrass, but controlled it too, as bands had to sing in Czech.”

Europe’s first country music radio station was here, and the much-loved “Tramp Movement,” in which urbanites spend weekends in the country “roughing it” as if they’re in the American west, infuses local country-western with a flavor all its own.

“The Tramp movement, based in part on the romance of the American west, developed after World War One and created a strong tradition of sitting around campfires, strumming guitars and singing,” Gruber said. “Many American folk songs, translated into Czech, were incorporated into the acoustic Tramp music repertoire decades ago.” (more…)

Easy does it (but not too easy) at an underground gay bar

By Sam Corbett

The young, the beautiful, and everyone else mingle at Club Termix. (Photo from Club Termix Web site.)

From the moment I rang the bell on the all-black door of Club Termix, the experience was a bit off putting. Not a sound could be heard from the street, so when I was ushered downstairs by an unsmiling doorman dressed in black, I was bracing myself for a scene right out of the movie Hostel. (more…)